![]() Last year she had the timing belt replaced, Crank Position Sensor, battery, and I believe the alternator as well. Recently we replaced her leaking radiator hoses and put a new thermostat in at the same time. After that Torque showed proper temperature (around 190). Torque app likewise showed low coolant temp. Her dash gauge was actually showing proper coolant temp, though the code said otherwise. Replaced the EGR solenoid, cleaned the EGR valve, and tested everything with a vacuum gauge according to the FSM, everything checks out at the proper vacuum pressure. Replaced the MAF for a remanufactured OEM one. Last year when I started working on the car for her she was driving it with codes for the EGR, MAF, and cooland temp all showing. Tried setting it at 1.5 turns (supposed to be factory setting from what I've read), and resetting the ECU. Tried messing with the BISS screw, did not make much difference in idle speed. I've checked everything looking for vacuum leaks, and tried three different OEM IAC valves I pulled from the junkyard, nothing made a difference. Since I've known her the car has idled too high (1500RPM+) in Park or Neutral, but would drop down to about 800 when put in gear. ![]() First I will give a little background on the issues I've been trying to fix, and I'll ask some specific questions about an ECU swap in the next post. ![]() Hello all, I'm trying to fix an issue with my fiance's 2000 GS Auto.
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